Partofthechaos
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| posted on 22/1/23 at 01:44 PM |
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I'm hoping the experience on here will help me with my next problem! Any suggestions welcome.
I'm trying to sort the fuel rail and I was wondering if you would be able to share your setups please. I was planning to use the Jag rail as the
ST200 one is copmpletely the wrong shape for the Jag lower inlet. I was hoping to put this on backwards as this will put the rail inlet close to
where the fuel pipes come through from the tunnel. I was also hoping to use the fuel pressure sensor on the other end of the rail to feed into the
ECU or at the very least as a way of sealing the end of the rail. However, the sensor fouls on the coolant inlet pipe when it is on in my prefered
orientation.
So the options that I can see are:
1. I use the rail the way round that Jag intended and add 1m to the fuel pipe to run it past the exhaust (not overwhelmed with this
option)
2. Don't use this sensor and try to find another way of blocking the end of the rail
3. Use a different rail (aftermarket, DIY etc)
4. Something else I havent thought of
Do any of these line up with how you all have sorted this?
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mgb281
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| posted on 22/1/23 at 02:19 PM |
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Use the fuel rail off a 2.1 XType, cheap simple and fits! I bought one recently for 7.50 including postage.
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40inches
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| posted on 22/1/23 at 04:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mgb281
Use the fuel rail off a 2.1 XType, cheap simple and fits! I bought one recently for 7.50 including postage.
This is what I did, makes the job very simple
One on ebay
Link
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CosKev3
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| posted on 22/1/23 at 04:58 PM |
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I cut the end off both ends of the rail and welded on AN6 male connections,then run a FPR holder I bought off Jenvey with a Bosch button style FPR
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big_wasa
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| posted on 22/1/23 at 05:10 PM |
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I’ve used a vw fuel filter that has the fpr built in. So pump to the filter. Filter to the fuel rail and the filter bleeds of back to the tank.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 22/1/23 at 09:02 PM |
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Thanks guys! I don't trust my welding for fuel grade joints so looks like I need the one from the 2.1V6. I take it the pimple with the black
cover near the fuel in end doesn't foul on the underside of the inlet manifold? Or does this need modification?
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40inches
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| posted on 22/1/23 at 10:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
Thanks guys! I don't trust my welding for fuel grade joints so looks like I need the one from the 2.1V6. I take it the pimple with the black
cover near the fuel in end doesn't foul on the underside of the inlet manifold? Or does this need modification?
Didn't foul on mine, was well clear of the manifold.
You can see it at the front in this photo
 
Description
[Edited on 22-1-23 by 40inches]
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 23/1/23 at 06:56 AM |
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Thank you, that's another problem answered!
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 12/3/23 at 03:05 PM |
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So the 2.1L rail I bought seems to be a different rail to the one you have and unfortunately it is too tall. It doesn't have the 45 degree bend
near the inlet either, so definitely a different version. I wonder if they changed it with the newer engine, so there are 2 different versions of the
2.1L rail and I have the wrong one.
On another issue, do any of you have a source of electrical terminals for the sensors? I am making my own loom so need to get new ones. Even if I
reuse the exisiting loom all of the clips on the injector connectors are broken so will need to replace these as a minimum.
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40inches
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| posted on 12/3/23 at 03:17 PM |
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Injector connectors here http://www.efiextras.co.uk/
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 12/3/23 at 04:05 PM |
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Thank you, thats a big help 
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 27/4/23 at 07:41 AM |
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I have the Pierberg CWA200 which I am currently fitting and planning the hose routing. However, I am struggling with the connectors. The AJ30 (and
by chance my MX5 compatable rad too) is 32mm, but the pump is 40mm. I cannot find an off the shelf adapter or useful existing pipe, so I am about to
see if I can find someone with a lathe. I like the idea of a lathe, but I think it more than my garage and my wife have the capacity for...
Th only option I have found is a 1.6 1971 to 1980 Ford Escort which has 32mm one end and 40mm the other, but with the bends on it this pre-made hose
may not be feasable for my layout. I have one on order so I can see if I can cut it up to use as an adapter. Failing that I was wondering how you
Pierberg users overcame this obsicle? I have tried to hunt around the photos on here but as ever there is never the one photo that you are after.
Any help gratefully apreciated.
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40inches
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| posted on 27/4/23 at 10:33 AM |
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This would fit https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/3832mm_Straight_Reducer_Silicone_Hose--product--453.html or this one
eBay
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 27/4/23 at 10:42 AM |
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Ah thank you! So the 38mm has enough stretch to do 40mm, that does make sense. I have never actually worked with silicone pipework, this project is
a steeper learning curve than expected! Glad I have your knowledge to refer to or I would never get the car finished.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 22/4/24 at 03:02 PM |
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Quick question for the AJ30 thread, I am installing the battery support and wondering what the smallest battery is that I can get away with. What
size do you all have?
I have checked the advised battery from Tayna.co.uk and Halfords and they both indicate the same one which is massively bigger than the one wihch came
with the donor car. So probably unlikely that I can reduce the physical size any further as apparently my current one is already on the small side.
I have a 540A 60Ah one currently, is this about right? Tayna says it should be 840A and 100Ah. Its 35cm long! I'd rather not have to move all
of the battery supports if i use my current one then find it is too small, but also don't want to carry a boat anchor around. Any thoughts?
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40inches
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| posted on 22/4/24 at 03:53 PM |
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It's going in a KitCar, very basic electrics.
I used a Varta B34 330ca, 8 years old now,started today after 3 months in garage with no chugging 
It's in the passenger footwell.
 
Description
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/b34/reviews/p3/
It takes up the same space as the drivers pedals, so not a problem with foot space
[Edited on 22-4-24 by 40inches]
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 22/4/24 at 03:59 PM |
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Thank you, I saw that one in your photos but thought it would have been for the previous bike engine as its small! That is good to know, in that case
I will hopefully be able to reduce the size a bit.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 24/4/24 at 03:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
Thank you, I saw that one in your photos but thought it would have been for the previous bike engine as its small! That is good to know, in that case
I will hopefully be able to reduce the size a bit.
I used a copy of an odyssey pc680. Was more than capable. I can't find the exact one I used but have a look on the tayna site. It's about
half the price of the odyssey one.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 25/4/24 at 03:03 PM |
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That does look like a good one, I shall investigate further.
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mgb281
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| posted on 15/5/24 at 05:44 AM |
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There is no need to have a huge battery, find one that fits and order a version with the highest CCA (cold cranking amps), the battery is not required
other than starting, once up and running the alternator supplies all that you need. Despite dynamo's disappearing more than fifty years ago we
still believe that we need a large battery to feed everything.
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 15/5/24 at 07:23 AM |
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Yes I suppose my question was a little vague, my concern is that I don't have a good feel for the CCA needed for this engine in our application.
It will be less than it was in the Jag as I have removed the AC compressor, power steering pump, water pump, tensioner pullies, torque converter and
reduced the size of the alternator (which also doesnt have to accomodate things heated seats on start up), so the parasitic drag is going to be much
less.
I was thinking that could equate to something like a third, especially in the context of light use rather than a commuter car, so I was after some
real world numbers from thouse who have already worked it all out.
However, with the AGM batteries (such as the Odyssey PC680) the 5 second CCA are high enough that it won't matter (aside from prolonged cranking
while setting things up for which I will have the original battery). I can have a much smaller capacity battery which still has enough starting
power. I hadn't come accross this function before so it is all useful info.
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mgb281
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| posted on 15/5/24 at 08:31 AM |
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In the USA there are plenty of MGB owners with Rover and Ford V8 engines using MX5 batteries, granted they don't drive them when it's cold
but very often they have air con although at start up the compressor pulley is free wheeling
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Partofthechaos
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| posted on 15/5/24 at 09:13 AM |
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Yes minimal AC specific drag at that point, though it still needs a longer belt and pullies which will add something.
If a V8 can be started with an MX5 battery then I am probably over assessing this a bit! This car won't be used in cold weather either,
certainly not as cold as the Jag tin top would have been designed for, so another justification for a capacity reduction.
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mgb281
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| posted on 15/5/24 at 09:43 AM |
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I tend to use Tanya batteries partly due to their wide range to choose from and easy to see specs, just choose one with the highest CCA. I have had
good results with Yuasa batteries that are smaller than the S types on a 4 litre Perkins diesel, the premium grades from other manufacturers will
probably be identical. There aren't that many manufacturers just a lot of badge engineering.
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